GALACSEA'S ADVENTURES

8-24 february 2014 - We spend 2 magical weeks in the San Blas. The archipelago is a collection of over 350 small islands surrounded by coral reefs, mostly uninhabited. They are the property of the Kuna indians who form an autonomous nation. The Kunas succesfully maintain a traditional way of living, at least in the islands, that excludes electricity and engines. Those who live in the islands are fishermen aboard dug canoes, only a few of them equipped with sails. You are not welcome to land on the islands – generally the kunas will want to charge you $2 – and you are wise to leave the coconuts alone. With fish and « molas » they are part of their livelihood. But they will share them if they like you and you behave according to their traditions. There are no hotels or restaurants. The only tourists are people who come via sailboat. Strangely enough, there are no motor yachts and no mega-yachts either. But several of the sailboats are clearly charter boats. When you come to an anchorage, the indians usually paddle out to your boat aboard their canoe – called « ulus », offering fish, lobster and molas. They may ask you to charge their cell phone since they have no electricity. Even though phone connections are not very good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kuna indians use wooden canoes called "ulus".  Canoes are sometimes equipped with a sail. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Molas are pretty appliques intrically made by sewing and cutting different layers of colorful cloth. Kuna women traditonnally sew them on to their blouses. They typically show geometric designs or forms of birds or marine life. Obviously, I buy several, after a protracted study of design, colors and stitch quality, as I keep wondering what will I do with them !! JP shakes his head but says nothing. Prices vary between $10 and $35, depending on size and design. So, this small pleasure doesn’t feel too extravagant. And as I also throw in a pair or two of reading glasses, we’re friends for life. The most famous « molas » masters are Vincenzio, Lisa and Prado. Prado visited the day after we arrived in the islands. He’s gay, but has a large family with 5 children and a wife (unsmiling, as are most kuna women).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We spent 2 wonderful weeks, sailing from one island to the next –

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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exploration des récifs de corail,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Going up the Diablo river, where the locals go get fresh water and do their laundry.

 

Thank you Carole & Dominique on Hippo’sCamp for all your good advice and company !

 

 

        Anchorages in the San Blas :

          Waisaladup – Western Holandes Cays – 9.35.723 / 78.46.421

          Tiadup – Eastern Holandes Cays – 9.34.940 / 78.40.413

          Green island – 9.28.761 / 78.38.194

         Nargana – 9.26.50 / 78.35.255

        Coco Bandero – 9.30.769 / 78.37.014

        Miriadiadup – Central Holandes Cays – 9.35.250 / 78.44.750

        Banedup – East Lemmon Cays – 9.33.800 / 78.51.600

        Chichime – 9.34.983 / 78.52.742

 

24 February 2014 – El Porvenir

 

Two weeks after arriving in the country, we finally clear into Panama in El Porvenir, the capital city of the Kuna Yala province. No one asked us anything – just once, a kuna paddled up to the boat to collect $10 for, apparently, the right to cruise into the the Kuna Yala, sum for which we got a receipt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the other hand, clearing in is expensive -- $100 per person for the visa (it would seem that visas delivered in Colon are free, subject to a $20 bakchich). The cruising permit costs $193 and includes the « zarpe » (provincial cruising permit) up to Colon. From Colon to Balboa, we’ll need another « zarpe » at an additional cost. On the other hand, we didn’t need to clear in and out of the Kuna Yala province. These procedures are byzantines and vary depending upon where you get them done. El Porvenir isn’t anything to write home about. The anchorage is small and limited to either side of the airport’s runway. The airport has recently been reopened. Two or three flghts land and take off in the early morning. The place is surrounded by reefs and it’s not easy to maneuver around as the anchorage can be crowded.. The wind was strong – 20kn

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The government building is clean and pretty. A sign on the palm tree forbids picking up coconuts.  Well-kept huts, including the Museum of the Kuna Nation, surround the building.

 

Electricity is available one hour in the morning and after 7PM. There is one hotel (huts and hammocks) and 2 restaurants with a limited menu of local staples -- fish, chicken, octopus, rice, lettuce.